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An 17ú Comhdháil de chuid Chumann na Taighde Ealaíonta (SAR)

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Submission Number: 192
Submission ID: 247
Submission UUID: b7b30f96-2057-4f70-a35b-cf42807bd0d0

Cruthaithe: Thu, 26 Feb 2026 - 17:54
Déanta: Thu, 26 Feb 2026 - 18:29
Changed: Wed, 13 May 2026 - 08:14

Remote IP address: 82.135.199.239
Submitted by: Anonymous
Teanga: English

Is draft: Níl
Current page: webform_confirmation
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Justė
Tarvydė
Your contribution
Whispers from the Seams: Artistic Research and the Minor Language of Fashion
English
This contribution presents Labeltry, an artistic research practice that engages clothing labels as minoritised linguistic and conceptual worlds. Although ubiquitous within global fashion systems, labels operate as marginal texts: concealed within garments, instrumentalised by branding, and subordinated to the visual and economic logics of platform capitalism. Their language is optimised for circulation, legibility, and desirability, yet rarely acknowledged as a site of knowledge.

Through processes of collecting, archiving, cutting, and recomposing discarded labels into poetic micro-texts, Labeltry repositions these fragments as epistemic residues. The project treats fashion labels as sedimented carriers of cultural memory, encoding geographies of labour, gendered scripts, affective economies, and normative ideals of value and recognition. Drawing on Lacan’s concept of the gaze, Sara Ahmed’s theory of affective circulation, and Adorno’s negative dialectics, the practice sustains contradiction rather than resolving it. By fragmenting and rearticulating commercial language, it interrupts the homogenising tendencies of maximisation, simplification, and aesthetic standardisation.

In doing so, Labeltry proposes minor poetic gestures as counter-models to algorithmic flattening and instrumental reason. Artistic research here functions as a method of recovering and transforming precarious conceptual worlds embedded in everyday material culture, foregrounding the fragile yet persistent knowledge contained in the seams of fashion.
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  • For two decades, my creative field was prestigious fashion magazines, where I developed a career as a fashion editor (writing) and stylist. I have an ongoing scholarly practice as an associate professor and an art PhD candidate at Vilnius Academy of Arts. The focal point of my doctoral artistic research is the nexus between art and fashion, between text and texture. The phenomenon of fashion is deeply imprinted in our collective memory and cultural imagination. I investigate how shifts in context influence the perception and significance of fashion objects. At the core of this research lies fashion as a medium of conceptual artistic expression. I’m wondering: how can fashion artefacts be reactivated through creative practice.
LABELTRY was presented at the joint exhibition "Compo(s)t & Detritus" at the gallery "Titanikas" in Vilnius, Lithuania.
Publication in an international peer-reviewed journal "Landing". DOI: https://doi.org/10.37522/z22pna81
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An 17ú Comhdháil de chuid Chumann na Taighde Ealaíonta (SAR)

Welcome to SAR 2026

Endangered Conceptual Worlds

The 2026 International Forum on Artistic Research takes place from 23 to 26 June 2026. Hosted by the University of Galway on the Atlantic coast of Ireland, the Forum addresses the challenges of Endangered Conceptual Worlds. As the 17th annual conference of the Society for Artistic Research it is the largest conference on practice-based research within and through the arts, bringing together more than 300 international participants: leading practitioners, scholars and policymakers from the entire range of arts-based disciplines.

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Slightly extended deadline for submissions

The 2026 Forum on Artistic Research website has been inaccessible for several hours on Friday night and Saturday morning. Unfortunately, an update to the web server was scheduled to take place, which automatically activated maintenance mode and prevented any work on the submissions during the night and the next morning. We have therefore decided to slightly extend the deadline for submissions to Monday 2 March 2026 at 23:59 GMT. Feel free to work on your proposals until then.